Disclaimer: This is a record of my first DIY oil & oil filter change. It is by no means professional work and strictly for the purpose of record keeping only. Lengthy post and photos intensive.
And so it goes, one of my objectives in riding is to be able to do as much maintenance on my bike as I could. The reason is obvious: I will be on my own during my trip and there's only me whom I can depend on. (of course, it would help me to cut down the running cost of owning the bike as well)
The very first step would be the very basic oil change. And so I got myself these tools and replacement parts.
An oil change pack. Basically just a carton box filled with waste paper, could have made one by myself but since this is the first time I figure I would just buy one. In Japan waste motorcycle oil could be discarded as combustible waste. (it does burn don't they)
An oil filter for the BMW F-serires. This is labelled as for F650GS but there are a countless of number of users in Japan who replaced this on their F700GS so it should not be an issue.
This is how it looks inside the package.
Oil filter removal wrench. Hope this will remove the original filter fitted on the bike.
The drain nut seal. I have no idea if this is the right one but based on the knowledge shared on the internet among the Japanese users this little ring does the job well. So here it is.
The back of the package tells the measurement of the seal.
I know I should have a socket wrench with an adaptor socket that fits the drain nut on the bike. Well beggars can't be choosers. This is all I have so it will have to make do. I will use the 10mm hexagon wrench. I tried to fit it into the drain nut, it does give some slack when turning the wrench. Does a proper socket wrench have the same issue? (if someone can point that out that would be helpful, thanks)
And I should have a torque wrench as well. But then again, I don't have that so will have to improvise. What I did was to put a line across the nut surface and the engine block, so that I can later use it as a guideline to know how much I should turn the nut when tightening it. Not accurate I would say, but well it will have to do.
And the job begins. Lifted the bike on center stand and warmed it up. Unscrewed the dipstick to let air in, then unscrewed the drain nut with the L-shape hexagon wrench. And the oil came pouring out. While waiting for the oil to drain, I tried to open the oil filter with the oil filter wrench. Guess what? I failed to do that..... The filter wrench wouldn't fit into the filter. So I need another solution. Anyhow, I guess Lara can't wait for another 3000 km before the next filter comes along.
And now filling her up with new oil. Replaced the dipstick screwed tight and warmed up the engine. Checked dipstick to see if the reading is correct. Yes it is! Total oil filled in is about 2.9L.
And now the dreaded part of maintenance. Oiling the clutch label.
I don't know how to do this really. I searched on internet and went fishing for the relevant youtube clips showing the how-to on the topic.
First, I loosened the clutch cable adjuster. Then, I removed the side mirror and the clutch lever assembly as per photo.
I do not plan to clean the cable as I did not know how to do it properly, so I just took the short cut by spraying the chain oil inside the clutch cable hose. The oil worked its way down out at the other end, and once I confirmed that I stopped injecting chain oil.
And then I fix everything back the same way, just the opposite of I took them apart.
The clutch pull feels much smoother now, although not necessary lighter.
Here is my first oil change and cable oiling! I am glad that I did it. The next step would be chain adjustment and air filter cleaning.
Wish me luck!
Cheers,
CK